FEAST: 9 reasons to eat your way through the East Bay
April 3, 2007 (excerpt of article)
The East Bay's feisty radicals, Neurosis fans, hyphy heads, agro hippies, torrid potters, gimlet-eyed gardeners, 924 Gilman suburbo gutter punks, Oakland First–ers, Black Panther vets, passionate nesters, and working-class heroes understand: there's plenty there to lure SF-oodies over the bridge — construction shutdowns and late-night lane narrowing be damned. Many culinary establishments fall in line with the gospel according to Alice Waters, but still others, such as those overseen by burgeoning eatery empire–builders Haig and Cindy Krikorian (owners of Sea Salt, Lalime's, Fonda, and T-Rex), are charting new paths in regional cooking and making good food that comforts one's soul and boosts one's morale, using sustainable ingredients. But food is so much more than sustenance — why stop there? Farther off the path of nutritional wisdom are other, less-posh grub spots that are no less beloved, for the homier glories of butterfat and chicken gizzards — they make the journey east that much more mouthwatering.
ZACHARY'S CHICAGO PIZZA Little Star, Pauline's, and Delfina are all aces, if you like that kind of fine Cali dining, but for true deep-dish that rivals the Windy City's, Zachary's is the only way to go. Quichelike texture, density, and heft aside — it's the rich, toothsome, and tomato-intense sauce that's so boss.
More of the article and Zachary's part of review:
(opens in a new browser)